#73 This Is It - The Final Blog

The final photo of the bike

We rode into Bogota with the knowledge we may not ride out again. This was where we were to, fingers crossed, sell the bike or ship it back to New Zealand. It didn't take long while held-up in a bedraggled hostel to acknowledge the issues we were facing and appreciate that our stay in Bogota may be longer than intended.

#72 Colombia – The End of the Road

For a long time our blog anticipated we would ride from Santiago, Chile to Tijuana, Mexico. We had even discussed the possibility of continuing all the way to Canada. During our travels we met many with the bold aim of crossing the Americas in their entirety, from Alaska to Ushuaia. This is entirely possible, just not at our pace, or not in a reasonable time period at least while still giving each country the time it deserved. Ushuaia had taken us 2 months. We left Buenos Aires more than a month later. So though we may not have admitted it to one another until 6 months into the ride, for much of our trip the end goal had been to reach Colombia.

#71 Journey to Middle Earth

So I've come to realise I'm all about milestones. It started with travelling a certain amount of kilometres, then it was about getting to Ushuaia, the southern most city in the world, though once we were there we weren't sure quite what to do. However, on heading north we started running out of milestones. I mean passing from one country to the next is cool, but until you get to the top of South America no one really cares. However, we would soon be passing another pretty special milestone. High up in Northern Ecuador, we would eventually pass from the Southern Hemisphere to the Northern Hemisphere. The middle of the earth, or middle earth for short. (I've also come to realise that New Zealand is famous for two things, little people with large feet, and one giant rugby player with a mean fend).

#70 History repeating itself: Banos, Tena & Quito

Back inland toward Baños, we had a repeat of the ride to Cuenca, only this time the cause was a very badly potholled road. We did at least manage to find accomodation before nightfall stopping in a small town where Saturday night meant continuing festival celebrations were at their most rowdy. In the past we would have viewed stumbling on such an occasion as good fortune but now we felt only frustration knowing the difficulties it would mean finding accommodation, and the knowledge our sleep would be interrupted by Ecuadorian 'music' (which sounds a lot like Japanese karaoke) on repeat throughout the night. We were starting to have an appreciation for how many varied and amazing things we have had the opportunity to experience. Festivals, thermal pools, and waterfalls just don't cut it any more. Well one thing we hadn't tried was bungee jumping. More on that to come. 

#69 Mating Season in Puerto Lopez

Ecuador began a little as Peru had when two police officers stopped us and tried to elicit a bribe. Only we didn't know that is what they were trying to do at the time. Reece had blatantly contravened the road rules by passing a truck on a speed bump when we heard the sirens. A man in uniform told old us it was going to be a $120US fine! Ouch. Well under my breath I was muttering to Reece we would simply leave the country without paying it. The policeman hadn't counted on our blatant disregard for the Ecuadorian justice system. It was only later as we discussed the incident did we realise they had assumed we would offer them a little something to make the whole thing go away. Unfortunately they struck the two most naive tourists in history. We left baffled, ticketless, and in posession of all our money. Where did we go so right?

#68 25,000 kilometres - Reece

With the border into Ecuador fast approaching we passed the 25,000km mark. Our journey began on a concrete parking lot outside the airport at 0km; passing cotton floating through the air like snow at 1,000km;  passing fields of sunflowers all staring at us at 10,000km. And now, some might say against odds, on a Peruvian highway cruising along, we passed 25,000km. 

#67 Surfing the Sea, Surfing the Sand

Almost more exiting than Machu Picchu and the Nasca lines was the knowledge we would get our first glance of the sea in the many months since leaving the Atlantic coast in Uruguay. After three months in Bolivia, the plan was to pass through Peru with haste, admiring the scenery from the back of the bike. That meant long days on the pan-American highway: almost 50,000 kilometres of road extending from Alaska all the way to Ushuaia in southern Argentina. The pan-American cuts through the desert along the coast of Peru. At its most beautiful it follows the wild pacific coast to the west, and winds through waves of sand dunes lining the road. At its worst rubbish lies strewn on either side dropped from passing cars in contravention of the many signs imploring drivers against this.

#66 A Line in the Sand - The Nasca Lines

'Whale'

I remember as a small child blessed with chicken legs and a high pitched voice, watching a documentary on the Nasca Lines. These mysterious lines, sprawled out across the desert, sometimes stretching for kilometres. These mysterious lines, only viewable from the sky - forming triangles, squares, monkeys, condors, astronauts? Like the Bermuda Triangle or the City of Atlantis, these lines were indeed a mystery - why were they made, for whom, and for what purpose? The documentary talked of alien beings, water cults, and mapping of the skies. Who knew I would one day find myself in Peru, boarding a small plane to see these wonders.

#65 Machu Picchu means 'Muchos Pictures'

Llamas keep the grass trimmed to perfection

We overheard a guide telling his group as we arrived at sunrise to one of the seventh 'new' wonders of the world that Machu Picchu means 'Muchos Photos' and it was easy to see why he must make this joke day in day out - it was more magical than we could have expected. As we took in our first glimpse of the Inca palace it was hard to imagine such a grandiose feat of architecture could have been hidden from the invading Spanish and then the world for centuries, buried under a canopy of forest until its western 'discovery' in the early 20th century. We took the guide's word from it and took quite a few pics - a few of the best are included below.

#64 Floating Islands - Lake Titicaca & Puno

The good fortune we expected from having a Priest bless our bike lasted all of about half an hour. Crossing the border into Peru we were extorted by the Police for not carrying bike insurance. Having only just entered the country and insurance not being available for sale on the border I would have thought some leniency would be in order but he was not letting us leave without a little sweetner, proudly pointing out in the rule book exactly which law we had broken.

#63 Only in Bolivia - Sorata & Copacabana

View over Lake Titicaca from our cabin.

After the road blocks, dirt roads, hold ups, friend chicken, and rain storms, I didn't think I would miss Bolivia. But it has its distinctions: the scenery is unparalleled and the experiences equally unmatched. Where else in the world can you chill out for an hour with a monkey around your neck, or walk a puma with no big-cat experience, stay in a rustic cabana for $13US (including dinner), step in the footprints of dinosaurs, be alone in an Inca ruin, tour a working silver mine, or swim with pink dolphins. Of course such unreal experiences are usually followed by some sort of disaster, as was the case with Sorata, confirming it really was time to leave.

#62 Surviving La Paz

A dried, llama fetus on sale at the Witches Market in downtown La Paz.

Sitting in a descending canyon, surrounded by moon valleys, La Paz is famous for its unique topography, and altitude (3,600 m.a.s.l) and even more famous for its unique tourist attractions. During the day visitors flock to bicycle down the road dubbed 'The World's Most Dangerous', despite at least 18 tourists having died since 1998. During the evening many sample cocaine in bars where white powder is sold over the counter. Ten years ago the big thing to do was take a tour of San Pedro prison, located in the heart of the centre next to a leafy plaza, where inmates must purchase their own cell and daily meals.* Rest assured parents, we did not try any of the above, but only include it to demonstrate that La Paz is not your average city.

#61 In the Jungle the Mighty Jungle - Rurrenabaque

The tour began with a lazy three hour boat ride up the river. It gave us a chance to relax, enjoy birdlife, and, most importantly, nature (that's why I come up here). We disembarked for a short walk to our base camp surrounded by abundant foliage. Almost there, I was busy reflecting how pleasant life was when suddenly I noticed small black things swarming my jandals. Screams erupted and suddenly everyone was trying to run. I realised why when I felt a sharp pain and a burning sensation on my left toe. I joined in the stampede and thought to myself, WELCOME TO THE AMAZON JUNGLE.

#60 The Day that was Worse than the Worst Day Ever

After surviving the mud to reach San Ignacio de Moxos we were both under the impression we could conquer anything, a conviction we came to rely on sooner than expected.

#59 The Worst Day Ever - Trinidad to San Ignacio

Arriving in Santa Cruz we finally found a bed to sleep in. One so comfortable we hardly left it, spending most of our time in the city watching television. Even our hostel's pool couldn't drag us away from the comfort of a mattress. Four days turned into five after a night on some heavy cocktails. Admittedly only two of them, but we have become such lightweights it was enough to get us to karaoke! Clearly it was time to move on.

#58 Up Close and Personal with the Bolivian Police - Torotoro to Samaipata

We are not sure why Jesus is holding a baby
T-Rex as advertisement for the National Park....
A comment on creationism perhaps?

Not content with getting up close and personal with a puma our next stop was Torotoro National Park, home of the Tyranosaurus Rex. Well its footprints. In between our jurassic adventures we had been invited to the home of Kiwi-Bolivian family living in Cochabamba whom had read about us on the net. Cory and his family have recently returned to Bolivia to set up Bolivia Bound, which offers motorycyle and 4x4 tours of Bolivia www.boliviabound.net. In our days with them, we were treated to some kiwi hospitality, and had a ball playing with their adorable bilingual children, ages 4,5, and 6. It was to be our last taste of home comforts in a while, as the next few days proved challenging.

#57 Job Vacancy: An Intrepid Opportunity - Villa Tunari

Looking for more excitement from your work? Interested in walking a puma every day for a month? No. Then how about a bear, or possibly a jaguar? If large mammals aren't your thing there are opportunities to work with spider monkeys too. The word 'job' is used in the loosest sense of the word as you will be required to pay a small daily allowance for the privilege and in return receive only basic food and board - no money. If you a daredevil by nature, fit, and would not object to living in modest surroundings then read on for further details. (I'm serious about this - it's really possible).

#56 Three Days and Two Nights on Another Planet - Salar de Uyuni

We wound our way into Uyuni, a dusty empty town on the outskirts of nowhere, but buzzing with tourists. Why? Because around the corner is the Salar de Uyuni, the salt flats of Bolivia. And a little further south, the emptiness and stunningness of South West Bolivia.

#55 The Mountain That Eats Men - Potosi

At 4,030 metres Potosi has a claim on being the highest city in the world - a fact not easily forgotten while wheezing our way around the city's streets. Between gasps of air we admired the colonial-style cathedrals, which can be found on every corner of the city's cobbled stoned streets, a relic of its former grandeur. But the real reason we, and so many other tourists came to Potosi, was to take a tour through the working silver mines of the multi-tinged mountain which casts an imposing shadow over the city.

#54 Living like Bolivians - Sucre and around

While not slaving away on the grass plantation we were partaking in local customs, playing football, and trying local delicacies - generally being one with the Bolivian people. Or something like that.