Before we began our journey we carried out a lot of research, so we thought we would share the love and set out here a bit of we learnt in the process of preparing and now being on a trip like this.
Our first caveat is that at the time of writing this we are 14,000km and four months into what we hope will be a much longer trip. The second caveat is that neither of us are mechanically minded. Reece went from knowing nothing about motorbikes to learning about 5% of what there is to know and let's just say Charlotte still has a lot to find out. But we willl share what we can and update this section as we go along.
This is set out in roughly the order in which we researched things.
The bike
Any trip can be done with any bike. We have met people travelling on 50cc's across South America, but obviously some bikes offer a better ride than others. My advice is do your research. The only website you really need it www.horizonsunlimited.com and especially the forum 'The Hubb': www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/. Countless people before you have asked questions about which types of bike are best and countless more will ask after. If you look, it has all the information you need.
We looked a lot into it and visited a lot of websites and settled on the Suzuki DL650 V-Strom. For the budget we had available it was a toss up between the V-Strom and the Honda TransAlp. We settled on the V-Strom as it was impossible to buy a TransAlp second hand in NZ. The V-Strom has been a great bike for a two up ride. It is comfortable on pavement and can manage the ripio (gravel). One thing we have noticed in Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay is an absence of Suzuki dealerships and Suzuki models on the road. This may mean it is difficult to source parts but as we have not really needed any so it has not been an issue yet.
The bike modifications
Givi Engine Guard - A must have. The bike has been well protected during any fall on gravel. Given the risk you take in not installing an engine guard it's a very inexpensive buy.
Bash Plate/Skid Plate - Crucial for any proper offroad driving. B & B Offroad is the type we went for. It has been a fantastic decision. Se www.bboffroad.com.au. Well designed, well thought out and strong. We read about problems with motech bash plates and has been extremely happy with this one.
Handguards - Another must have. Any fall and these have protected the levers and most importantly, Reece's hands. We used to have standard plastic ones but they fell apart when the bike fell over one time on some gravel (it wasn't even moving at the time). We upgraded to Biketique bars with a aluminium insert and have found that they have withstood any abuse. Not much protection in the wind and rain though.
Scott Oiler - Installed before and has been handy, though we found it tricky to refill. Ended up getting a syringe from a Hospital and putting in new oil in that way.
Stronger Handlebars - Considered it and didn't upgrade. We haven't regretted the decision thus far.
Radiator protector - Considered it and again gave it a miss. Again, haven't regretted the decision thus far.
Happy Trails Aluminum Panniers - One of the most important decisions we had to make was what luggage system to purchase. We thought a lot about whether to go aluminium or soft. Aluminium panniers cannot be purchased in New Zealand meaning they were always going to be a pricier option over soft panniers but we decided it was worth it given the additional space, security, and protection in a fall. Although more than $1000 for the two 41L boxes, mounting kit and tail rack we haven't regretted the decision thus far. They have withstood some small falls and even a crash (see blog #24). After the crash Reece spent a day hammering them back to size. They have a quick release system and we installed some handles on top which make them easy to remove for carrying into hostels. We accept that Touratech are a superior brand but their models were simply out of our price range and difficult to locate outside of Europe. Also, we know some people construct their own. Again, we lacked the skills for this to be a real possibility.
Happy Trails Tail rack and 90L Dry Bag - Rather than purchasing a top box, we instead went for the cheaper option of a PVC dry bag that can be strapped to the bike. These bags are typically used in canoes or boats. It has been great as acts as a good backrest for Charlotte. We can also pack any extra stuff into it on days when we have no room. It's waterproof and was very cheap. Just make sure you get a durable PVC bag.
Oxford Lifetime Luggage Tank Bag - A tank bag is a must have for carrying maps, documents, and anything you need easy access to on the road. We went for the Oxford Lifetime luggage which in theory was a great choice but in reality has been a DISASTER. The zip continues to break, the waterproof cover does not fit the bag (we think we were given the cover for a different model), and we were told it can be used as a backpack but it doesn't really work as one. This has been our most disappointing purchase, particularly as we spent around $300 on it. We continue to look for a better alternative. We have contacted Oxford a number of times about obtaining a replacement and they have not been helpful at all! A Lifetime guarantee is no use when they won't let you replace it in another country. Grrrrrrrrr.
Motorcycle Clothes
Safety and comfort were our number one concerns. We opted for Revit Gear which we have no complaints about. We are starting to notice a bit of wear and tear now but that is to be expected given the time we have spent on the road. Our best advice is to get good quality gear with removeable layers that is comfortable enough to wear on a daily basis.
Jacket and Pants - Our Revit Gear has three layers: one outside armour, underneath which there is a waterproof liner, and then a thermal inner. The waterproof liner and thermal can be removed when it's super hot (and it gets super hot) and it can all be put back in when it's super cold (and it gets super cold). Each person is a different fit and different brands are made differently. Charlotte tried on about 20 pairs of pants before finally finding the right fit (women's gear is definitely harder to find, particularly if you're 5'5). We just recommend getting three layers.
Boots - Again good quality is the key, also make sure they are comfortable enough to walk around in. We often walk around town in our boots when buying lunch for example, and have done some walks in our boots where we have parked up the bike and strapped our jackets to it. Charlotte bought Diadora and Reece's are AlpineStars. Charlotte's have a plastic strap device and Reece's have zips. While we both rate our boots highly in terms of comfort the screws on Charlotte's straps have come loose and one strap has come now come off. The boots still work and to be fear Charlotte was a little slack in keeping the screws tight. However, the question was asked to the Sales Assistant whether the straps would cause any issue and he wrongly assured us there would be none.
Helmets - We opted both for Shoei helmet's as we both found them to be the most comfortable and lightest. We thought it was worth spending a bit more on such an important item but provided they pass the safety tests any brand will do. It's really all about comfort. A lot of tourers go for the flip-face helmets but we found these to be too heavy and slightly unnecessary.
Clothes - Icebreaker thermal range. It came highly recommended and for good reason. Whilst expensive it has been worth its weight in gold. Light, good quality, warm and most importantly they don't smell which becomes imporant when they're being worn for the third day in a row. Also, they pack down very small and dry very quickly once washed. The wool in Charlotte's socks has shredded a bit but we think that may be caused by her boots as Reece's have stayed in good shape.
Sourcing a motorcycle
We looked into this a lot and in the end decided to buy the bike in New Zealand. This was mainly because we needed as much time to practice riding and carry out the necessary modifications. It has turned out to be in our minds the best decision.
You can buy a bike in a foreign country but you open yourself to long delays and high prices. We have met people who have been delayed a month trying to find a suitable bike which is a lifetime when travelling. We have also found it very easy to get in and out of countries being New Zealanders with a New Zealand bike. A lot less complicated than if two New Zealanders, with a Chilean bike, are trying to enter Argentina, for example.
We looked into shipping or flying and ended up flying. Whilst more expensive, it meant a certain arrival date and certain costs. Again, it also gave us longer with the bike in New Zealand - to ship would have taken two or more months to reach Santiago, Chile. We have heard stories of people getting charged large 'port costs' when they arrived which they had no choice but to pay and others who have waited months for their bike to arrive only to find out it is sitting on a port on the other side of the world. Check out our first blog to see what issues we had with the bike crate.
Key purchases
At the end of the day it comes down to what you need, how many bikes are in your group and what can fit into the panniers. As the saying goes, less is more. It's nice to have some additional space for food, water, and other items purchased on the road. We opted to take camping gear which has been a great decision as it has allowed us to go to some amazing places, but of course this has meant we have had to sacrifice on clothers (like jeans). We also hear outside Argentina and Chile camping sites become harder to find, less safe, and not cost-effective given the cheap accommodation available.
Multi fuel stove - We bought a Whisperlite that can run on diesel, kerosene, gasoline, and white gas. A multi-fuel cooker is crucial for when in smaller towns where white gas and even kerosene (and sometimes gasoline) can be hard to come by. Though we are reluctant to criticise this beloved item the temperature can be difficult to control.
Sea to Summit compactable bowls and cups. Genius idea. Great space savers and means we don't have to eat out of a pot. Turn over one of the bowls and it acts as a chopping board. The bowls seem to spring up of their own accord but once packed in to the net casing work a charm (we combined two sets into one case to save space). We also have Light My Fire plastic sporks. Light and save space. The first one snapped but we replaced it in Puerto Natales. The knife is surprisingly sharp for plastic.
Compression sacks and clothes organisers - You can't have too many compression sacks. A great way to reduce size of bulky soft items, for example clothes, our motorcycle inners, and even our tent. Go for medium sized, large is unnecessary.
Cheap Notebook Laptop - We bought the cheapest one we could find in Santiago and it has been invaluable. It has a super long battery life which allows us to watch our favourite shows The West Wing and The Wire while camping. Also we have found that free wifi is available in loads of places which theoretically means Charlotte can keep the blog constantly up to date.
Disk lock and bike chain - We had a Xena disc lock purchased from home which we use whenever the bike is parked. It came with an alarm but we found this was more hassle than it was worth and we accidentally dropped it once and the alarm broke. We lost the disc lock but were able to replace it with another Xena lock in Buenos Aires. Otherwise we use standard chains to tie up our helmets and gear to the bike when necessary and sometimes to chain the bike up.
Insurance
Bike insurance - It was impossible to source in New Zealand so we have had to try and pick it up where we could in countries along the way, often unsucessfully. Full insurance is impossible. We understand some companies offer insurance across South America but this remains elusive.
Health Insurance - Very important to research properly. Be upfront with any company and make sure that their policy covers extends to both you and your pillion. As lawyers we checked the fineprint and also called the companies. The last thing you want is to be rejected while on the road. We found that companies underwritten by Allianz generally covered a motorbike provided you have a full licence. But again, I would call to check and get something in writing.
Additional tips
Websites - I can't speak highly enough of www.horizonsunlimited.com as it really has answered any questions we have about the trip. Other than that, whatever bike you end up choosing, find and join a bike specific website forum, which is another great place to ask questions when you're wondering about an upgrade, a part or something that isn't working. For the VStrom I use www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-specific-wee-strom. Otherwise just read blogs and get a feel.
Getting the bike out of customs - This was an interesting experience, but relatively straightforward in the end. For getting a bike out of Santiago we wrote up a response on www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/south-and-central-america-mexico/santiago-airport-retrieving-bike-60210
Crossing Borders - Generally very straight forward and something you work out first time you do it. First you personally get stamped out of the country you-re leaving, then you get stamped into the country you're entering. The bike has a temporary import certificate which is handed over to the departing country and a new one is obtained for the country you are entering. Then you cross to the next border and the whole process begins again. Check out The Hubb for more detailed descriptions. You shouldn't have to pay any money when crossing a border (at least that is our experience thus far). Sometimes the customs officials are unaware of the requirements for the bike so it's a good idea to take a copy of a certificate to use as an example. And make sure you carry this with you at all times. Finally, we advise that checking the details of the certificate are correct.
Final Advice
LEARN SPANISH. All the other stuff is easy to sort out once you're on the road. Learning a language is a little more complicated. We didn't and found it very hard going to start off with. We still find it difficult and we know that if our Spanish was better the experience would be enhanced.
If you have any questions feel free to send us an email at either imreece@gmail.com or charlottehomes85@gmail.com