#62 Surviving La Paz

A dried, llama fetus on sale at the Witches Market in downtown La Paz.

Sitting in a descending canyon, surrounded by moon valleys, La Paz is famous for its unique topography, and altitude (3,600 m.a.s.l) and even more famous for its unique tourist attractions. During the day visitors flock to bicycle down the road dubbed 'The World's Most Dangerous', despite at least 18 tourists having died since 1998. During the evening many sample cocaine in bars where white powder is sold over the counter. Ten years ago the big thing to do was take a tour of San Pedro prison, located in the heart of the centre next to a leafy plaza, where inmates must purchase their own cell and daily meals.* Rest assured parents, we did not try any of the above, but only include it to demonstrate that La Paz is not your average city.

Drama has become daily life for us in Bolivia and getting to La Paz was no exception. After returning from our jungle and pampas tour we were prevented from leaving Rurrenabaque for a number of days due to petrol shortages, bloackdes, and most crucially the weather notwithstanding the rainy season supposedly ended in April. Every time we prepared ourselves to leave the rains would come sending shivers through our bodies as we thought of the damage being done to the dirt roads. 

During our two-week stay we had a chance to sample the food of every restaurant in town where we met a number of tourists. Every one had caught the bus from La Paz to Rurrenbaque but returned by aeroplane, refusing to live through another 26-50 hour ride of breakdowns, blockades, and near death experiences as their buses came perilously close to the edge of the road dubbed the 'Highway of Hell'. The road is so dangerous the usual rule of driving on the right hand side in Bolivia changes to give the left-hand vehicle a better view over his outside wheel making passing safer around - necessary given the sheer drops on one side. But this can be even more dangerous as signs about when to change are scant. Just days before we left 15 locals died when a bus went over the cliff - http://www.ndtv.com/article/world/15-dead-in-bolivia-bus-disaster-199820. It certainly wasn't easy, the hype was much worse than the ride itself which I think was easier by motorcycle.

This truck had to be towed out of the mud by the bus behind it.

It did warrant a bit of a party on arrival in the city (well, the next day as the first night were exhausted having driven two days straight). Despite having heard all the stories prior were still shocked to see the amount of cocaine being consumed openly in bars, hostels, and dorm rooms. For us it seemed crazy that tourists would take such a risk, as while cocaine may be readily available, supposedly of the purist quality and disgustingly cheap, it is still very much illegal in Bolivia. I cannot imagine incarceration in a Bolivian prison comes with five-star service. We politely declined many free offers throughout the evening. This is an interesting read on cocaine culture in La Paz: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/aug/19/bolivia-cocaine-bar-route-36

We were fortunate enough to have a contact, Jennifer, through Reece's parents in La Paz who invited us to stay with her in her apartment. She showed us amazing hospitality, making us welcome in her home and educating us on recent developments in Bolivian politics. A highlight was a day trip on the outskirts of the city to the Muella del Diablo (Devil's Molar) where were treated to moonscape scenery and spectacular views overlooking La Paz, from where you really got the sense of the city's bowl shape.

The Devil's Molar

We were set to leave on the Monday but characterstically Bolivia had other ideas for us. The transport companies were on a two-day strike against a recent law passed to develop a unified, transport system in La Paz, something which most in the city support, with the exception of those running private taxi-vans, busses, and mini-vans. The transportistas blocked any traffic entering or departing the city using busses and vans to barricade key entry points in and out of La Paz as well as most main roads.

As a tourist it was quite pleasant walking the central city free of its usual smog and traffic,  but it was difficult to fathom how people can get away with holding the city hostage in this manner. For many it meant flights were missed, long walks to work, or for some not being able to make it at all. For us our bike was being serviced and as the mechanics had no way to get to work this was also delayed. As we couldn't have left regardless it made little difference.

Parked buses in the background blocking the roads.

Jennifer was able to keep us abreast with recent developments and the news was that the strike would break by Wednesday but Thursday would see the miners, students, and doctors take to the streets in protest over whatever their grievances are. We had been planning to return to Coroico along the World's Most Dangerous Road but with the upcoming strikes, though they were not expected to be as disruptive as the transport strike, it seemed sensible to get out and not return. Besides, given the roads we had driven in Bolivia no one could say we were not up to the challenge! 

*Due to the success of the book 'Marching Powder' tours of San Pedro prison have been shut down by authorites. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pedro_prison