#70 History repeating itself: Banos, Tena & Quito

Back inland toward Baños, we had a repeat of the ride to Cuenca, only this time the cause was a very badly potholled road. We did at least manage to find accomodation before nightfall stopping in a small town where Saturday night meant continuing festival celebrations were at their most rowdy. In the past we would have viewed stumbling on such an occasion as good fortune but now we felt only frustration knowing the difficulties it would mean finding accommodation, and the knowledge our sleep would be interrupted by Ecuadorian 'music' (which sounds a lot like Japanese karaoke) on repeat throughout the night. We were starting to have an appreciation for how many varied and amazing things we have had the opportunity to experience. Festivals, thermal pools, and waterfalls just don't cut it any more. Well one thing we hadn't tried was bungee jumping. More on that to come. 

We couldn't help but being slightly disappointed by Baños which had been hyped to us by many tourists. I rate the one excursion we made as the worst hike of the entire trip. It was saved only by the delicious bottom-less milkshake and fruit salad available at a shop on the way, all the more for their excellent value. Still, it couldn't make up for the muddy, hilly, viewless and badly signposted track (which led to being chased off someone's property by a dog), without so much as a sighting of the cloud-obscured volcano we had climbed up to see.

Pre-jump pep-talk.

The hot pools for which Baños (literal translation - baths) are famous for were equally disappointing unless you like standing in your togs in very close vicinity to sweaty Ecuadorian's and other tourists. We needed something to break-up the funk we were in. We considered hiring a buggee and driving a well-known route past several waterfalls but this seemed too much like the motorbiking trip except that I would be driving. One thing we hadn't tried was bungy jumping which was something I had no inclination to do had it not been sooo cheap. In fact I don't think I would have gone through with it had we not arranged a deal for three of us to jump: $20 each with photos and video. I presumed that if I backed out the deal for the others would go with me. I am pretty sure I was crying as I stood on the ledge of the bridge looking down at the river so far beneath me and I am positive there were tears once I jumped. It was all over pretty quickly of course, particularly as this jump, while very high above the ground, didn't have a long extension; rather than bobbing up and down at the bottom you swing back under the bridge. Personally it made little difference to the fear factor. Never again.

I think tears are visible in this one.

Our next day on the road was a pleasantly short one as we headed to Tena and Ecuador's Amazon basin via a recently constructed highway. It felt great to be back in the warm weather and we decided to make the most of it by taking a day-long rafting trip down the clear and balmy rivers. Before jumping on the raft we were led to a swimming hole at the bottom of really high cliff. To the side of the pool was a cave that led to miniature pool at the base of a small waterfall. The rafting guys told us that we could, if we wanted, climb the ladder that had been placed to reach the top and jump from the cliff into the pool below. It was exhilarating enough just walking up the ladder which was literally placed in the centre of this small waterfall - the sound of it crashing over you was deafening. Reece took the plunge and I nearly wish I had after descending the unsecured and slippery ladder!

The rafting itself was made up by the serene setting which we understand may not exist for much longer. Oil companies have plummaged Ecuador and this spot is one of their next targets. It has enraged locals and environmentalists, particularly in the Amazon region where we regularly saw signs such as 'Texaco = muerte (death)' on our travels. The water was warm enough to jump in when we felt like it, and clear enough to pick up the yellow tomato-like fruits we spotted drifting down every so often. Locals collect the fruit to sell and to avoid carrying the heavy bags of fruit out of the forest they send them down the river. The only flaw in their plan is when the bags break as happened on the day of our rafting trip. The rapids may not have been too exhilirating but the tranquility and beauty of the setting more than made up for it.

Afterwards we headed up to the capital, Quito with the sole purpose of replacing our camera. I think it was during our visit to the 'Old Town' that Reece made the comment - 'if the town's drawcard is colonial buildings or cobblestoned roads, I don't want to go.'  Let's just say things were starting to repeat themselves. One new experience was later that night. We had befriended an Aussie and his Kiwi girlfriend who in true Anzac fashion were a fan of their drink and dragged us to an Irish bar down the road. It being a Sunday night and bars not being licensed to provide booze on the sabbath meant we had to sneak in the back door. It was a lock-in; the curtains were closed, there was no music, and everytime the chatter started to rise to a level the two coppers on the corner outside might hear, the barman would hush us all up. The night was capped off with a curry - you really can't get more un-South American than all that but for this trip at least, it was a new experience.

Check-out this video of Reece jumping - the springboard dive backfired on him a little bit!