#17 Camping in Esquel

In spite of the majestic outlook I had from the back of the bike, more so because it was so unexpected, I was having some serious difficulties keeping my eyes open, obviously still feeling the effects of the bike ride the previous day. I'm starting to appreciate the expansiveness of Argentina; I believe we have now ridden the length of New Zealand - from Kaitaia to Invercargill and back again and the picturesque scenery continues. Today we were treated to waterfalls, lakes, rivers, snowy mountain tops. And the smells, from the freshness of pine trees to the fumes coming out of the exhaust of a truck, all senses are on alert on the back of a bike.

After pulling up to El Bolsen earlier than expected we took another gamble and chose to ride the additional 200kms to Esquel. It meant arriving late without accomodation organisation (never ideal) but it seemed like a waste to only ride 120kms in one day. It also meant missing out on the recommended hippie markets, but with Reece beginning to talk about turning his rapidly growing locks into a rats tail I decided he didn't need any more motivation to test out the hippy lifestyle.

Alcerces National Park

Instead of finding accomodation and then having a beer, we were lulled into a false sense of security by the promise of camping at the information centre and seeing a pub across the road was too hard to refuse. After drinking the only option of beer available (German) in the Irish pub and two portions of chips accidentally (portions/persons - very similar words) we went up to the camping site but no one was around. After rocking up to two hostels only to find their prices more than double than stated in what is affectionately known by some as the 'Lying Planet', and another that was nowhere to be found, we returned to the campsite and pitched our tent in the fading light. Worth the effort as we got away with a free nights accommodation; not bad given the availability of running water, hot water, and electricity. Bit of a bad night sleep though as it seemed to be the local hangout for Esquel's stray dog population.

The next night was spent somewhere a little more tranquil: Alcerces National Park. Again, rather than walk to the tree of the parks namesake we pitched our tent and enjoyed some sun by the lake. For reasons I cannot explain (probably because I never listened in high school Science) this area is blessed by a warm microclimate and after a short explore in the surrounding forest it was warm enough to take a quick dip against the advice of our travel doctor back home.

In addition to not swimming in lakes or rivers she also advised never to drink the tap water, or eat any fruit  vegetables washed in water, all of which we have ignored with no issues to date. Things may change north of Buenos Aires but for now until something goes wrong we will carry on as is.  We were also astouned to learn that the mosquito repellant the pharmacist inststed we purchase, Deet 80, was used as a plastic melter in a former life! Travellers have since told us that even Deet 40 burns when you put it on your skin.