#9 Snippets of Mendozan life

Well, we have been in Mendoza a for almost two weeks now, probably the longest we will stay in a place for anyone one time. Mexican novelist, Carlos Fuentes described the city as 'protected by a roof of leaves woven togehter like the fingers of inseparable lovers'!

While in my view that may be overstating the romance of the city it is surprisingly luscious given the arid conditions in which it is located. My initial view was anything but – Mendoza seemed like a dirty city; simply walking the street, albeit in jandals, had our feet covered in sooty dirt. Coming across the Andes we saw storm clouds in the distance but no storm ever eventuated. It was only later that what we saw were not storm clouds but in fact ash clouds, Mendoza has been the victim of the Puyehue volcano, but it has got much better during our time here. 

Siesta at Hostel Mora

We have grown very attached to Hostel Mora where we're staying in and its staff and will be sad to leave. We have the youngest, Carolina, who works in the morning, so eager to please and one of the sweetest people you will meet (on a number of occassions Carolina has offered to call her father to assist with out various odd questions, such as where we can buy insurance for our bike – she has also lead us on some wild goose chases! The afternoon girl we fondly refer to as 'chow chow girl' in reference to how she bids everyone farewell; Marcello, working seven days a week both at the hostel and as a teacher at the language school saving to meet his girlfriend in Canada; and Reece's amigo Omar, who works through the night, and studies during the day. Then there is the owner who booked a van to drive a group of us to a football game put on by the hostel, and finally his wife who we aware of solely because she comes in every day to cook pancakes.

While in Mendoza we have tried to learn what we can about Argentinian culture. Essentially this has involved trying any food we can get our hands on and embracing the afternoon siesta. As Argentina, or at least Mendoza, shuts down in the afternoon and only opens up at 5pm it makes perfect sense! We have made and ate a number of empanadas, tried el mate, experienced an Argentinian asado (bbq), had a choripan at the football, eaten tortita's, churro's, salchicas, drunk Malbec wine, the list goes on. The Chilean's aren't the only South American's with an incredible sweet tooth - it's all about the dulce-de-leche over here - it's used as a spread on bread and toast for breakfast, is an icecream flavour, a type of chocolate, and generally is the most common filling found in sweet foods.

Our attempts at preparing empanadas

Reece has also bought himself a bottle of fernet, a spirit added to coca-cola which for most traveller's who have tried it, including myself, it tastes like medicine. Reece however is of the view that while in Argentina one must act as an Argentinian, and will continue to drink it until its something he enjoys. Same goes with el mate, a caffeinated tea, similar to green tea but stronger (obviously prepared with different herbs but my tastebuds, and writing ability, is not up to supplying a superior description). 

Only thing about mate is you can't just buy some leaves at the supermarket and add water. There is quite a process to go through and customs to respect when drinking it. For example, you should only once thank the 'mate preparer' (a loose translation) once otherwise he will presume you don't want any more and you can never touch the straw. With meningitis rife in NZ I don't think mate will take off there any time soon as one mug and straw is shared between a group of people. Just one of the many activities Hostel Mora put on is an Introduction to Mate presentation where we tasted it for the first time. It's everywhere and some people drink more than 2L a day. We're thinking we might buy ourselves a little mate pot to keep us awake and possibly as a hunger suppressent in an attempt to move the solid base I have been forming in Mendoza!

For me watching Godoy Cruz play San Juan in football (akin to a 'battle of the bridge' clash) has been the highlight. A group of us from the hostel and the Spanish school attended and despite been far from a packed stadium the atmosphere was just what we would have hoped for from a South American soccer, sorry football, game. An hour and a half before the game had begun the stadium was already pretty lively with chanting, singing, and the throwing of old receipt rolls brought in by supporters and handed out to anyone who wants some. I attempted a throw but rather than have the streamer effect as intended my roll remained in tact - I was too afraid to look to see what, if any, damaged I caused to those below.  By the time the game begun there was not a standing spot left in the terraces where we were sitting with the Godoy Cruz supporters, cordorned off from San Juan  at the opposite end of the stadium.

The game itself was late starting as five minutes before our entire end of the stadium was covered in the largest supporter's flag I have ever seen. Brought in by a group of 100 or so supporters who are stationed on the top benches of the terraces, and by the looks of it made from old sheets, it was unwound until it completely encased our entire stand. Of course being underneath it we could not see the effect but it must have been pretty spectacular. It was then rolled up, more chanting followed, more jumping and throwing of paper, much of which landed on the field and had to be cleaned up before the game could begin. Pleadings from the players and umpires could not suppress the supporters excitement as streamers continued to cross the moat surrounding the field.

Underneath the flag.

What surprised me was the support ones own players receive, in direct contrast to the harrasment imposed on supporters of the competition. Not once in walking to or from the game did we spot a Godoy Cruz supporter, and the presence of riot police, security guards, and the over-friendly pat-down we received upon entry told us that a clash of supporters can turn ugly. We got a small taste when towards the end of the game San Juan supporters started lighting the piles of leftover paper on fire. However, no one seemed to concerned until some got thrown onto the grounds themselves. Perhaps they may be better of repelacing some of the riot police with firefighters.